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Paris-Shanghaï à vélo
MESSAGE N°20, le : 21/03/2006
Bon, j’en étais donc resté à mon arrivée sur Hong-Kong. Je me rends donc directement à l’adresse indiquée dans mon guide. Il se trouve que l’auberge «Travellers» se situe intelligemment au seizième étage d’une tour qui en compte justement seize... Comble de bonheur l’un des deux ascenseurs est en rénovation. Résultat : une queue de vingt minutes environ rien que pour monter. En plus, moi et tout mon barda (un vélo+4 sacs+ 1 sac poubelle+1 petit sac à dos+1 guitare+1 petite glacière+mes vêtements détrempés par deux litres de sueur) eh ben je sens que notre présence ne fait pas plaisir à tout le monde dans cet ascenseur... Enfin...
En plus, avant de monter je me suis embrouillé avec un indien (non, pas un gars avec Tomawak et plumes, mais un gars qui vient de mon nouveau pays préféré : l’Inde) qui m’a parlé comme à de la merde parce que, suivant les recommandations du pseudo flic qui gère la queue de l’ascenseur (véridique ! C’est son boulot au gars... !), j’avais appuyé mon vélo contre le chargement de cartons sur un diable que le blaireau avait laissé en plein milieu de tout... Je dois dire que le fait qu’il soit indien n’a pas aidé à ce que j’essaye de calmer le jeu...
Le lendemain, je fais un peu les magasins d’électronique dans l’espoir de retrouver une petite merveille identique à celle que j’avais intelligemment perdue à Siem Reap, au Cambodge. Je ne vous cache pas ma joie de voir mes recherches couronnées de succès. Je vais maintenant avoir de la musique pour le reste du voyage, pendant que je pédalerai... Et ça, c’est bien cool !
Le soir, je retrouve mes amis du groupe Bahouki (rencontrés à Siem Reap... Oui, oui, au Cambodge). Les retrouvailles sont chalHeureuses et John, le chanteur, me propose d’investir l’île de Lama où David (le violoniste) et lui (toujours le chanteur !) habitent côte-à-côte. Aussitôt dit, une nuit après fait ! C’est comme ça que je débarque sur Lama avec mon vélo le mercredi dans la journée. J’avais prévu de ne rester que trois jours sur Hong-Kong (et donc de repartir le jeudi) mais John m’a convaincu de rester au moins jusqu’au samedi en me disant que nous pourrions faire un concert commun : Bahouki + Yoyo, dans le pub d’un de leurs amis que j’avais aussi rencontré à Siem Reap (c’est fou le monde qu’on rencontre à Siem Reap, non ?). Évidemment, je suis enchanté par cette perspective et accepte donc de rester un peu plus longtemps.
Mes journées sur Lama se passent tranquillement. Finalement, je loge dans la maison monopièce de David, une toute petite maison chinoise très mignonne. Il me donne mes premières vraies leçons de violon (ce qui me donne carrément envie de m’y mettre, au grand dam de mes futurs voisins ou colocataires !!!). Malheureusement, le concert ne pourra pas avoir lieu samedi soir car un autre groupe était prévu depuis plus longue date dans ce pub. Tant pis... Mais bon, ce n’est que partie remise... En fait : Partie anticipée... En effet, dans l’après-midi du samedi, il était prévu qu’ils aillent jouer au Jockey, un pub sur l’île de Hong-Kong, à Happy Valley exactement. Je les y rejoins vers la fin de leur tour de chant et attrape la guitare de John pour pousser une ou deux chansons, comme ça. Mais comme les gens du pub semblent apprécier, ça se transforme vite en un nouveau tour de chant de plus d’une heure, avec John, Dave, Ollie (le flûtiste percussionniste du groupe) et un ami à eux, un chinois qui déchire au banjo, qui m’accompagnent. La grande classe quoi !
Je dois partir le lendemain mais je suis trop fatigué (car malade, une petite crève... Non aviaire, j’espère) et reporte au jour suivant. Et c’est comme cela que je quitte mes amis le 13 mars avec seulement dix jours pour rallier Hong-Kong à Shanghai.
Paris - Shanghaïïïïïïïïïïïïïïïïïï !!!
Le jour suivant, c’est un 150 bornes qui me mène, toujours dans des conditions similaires (je vais un peu mieux au niveau de la grippe aviaire, merci !) jusqu’à Quan Zhou Shi.
Mais d’abord, il me faut quitter Hong-Kong... Je ne vous ai pas parlé de la relation de cette ville avec les vélos... Bon... C’est bien simple : Hong-Kong est anti-vélos ! Le système de transports en commun est formidable, de mon humble point de vue, du moins. Mais alors, quand il s’agit des vélos c’est juste une horreur. Des voies express interdites aux vélos un peu partout, des ferrys, oui, des ferrys interdits aux vélos (seul celui de Tim Sha Tsui à Wang Chai les accepte), le tunnel entre le bout de la péninsule (Kowloon) et l’île de Hong-Kong interdit lui aussi tout comme le train et le métro…Ça tombe mal parce qu’en tant que grand malade (j’ai peut-être la grippe aviaire, qui sait ?) je ne me sens pas de sortir de Hong-Kong (une trentaine de bornes jusqu’à la frontière) sur ma monture. Je descends donc dans le métro où des employés tous plus zélés les uns que les autres me refusent les uns après les autres l’accès à leur putain de métro ! Je leur explique que je suis malade, qu’à la frontière, l’autre jour, ils m’ont laissé le prendre pour venir jusqu’ici et, enfin, que leur ville est un cauchemar pour cyclistes et qu’il est hors de question que je risque ma vie (enfin, je dis ça pour les impressionner parce qu’en fait c’est pas du tout aussi risqué que l’Inde ou le Vietnam...) pour sortir de leur bled à la noix (oui, je m’énerve un peu...). Finalement, après une heure (je mens pas !!!) de tractations et après avoir fait descendre le responsable en chef de ces questions à la con, et, surtout, après m’être énervé un bon coup, ils me laissent prendre le métro en me faisant accompagner par un de leurs employés qui va venir jusqu’au terminus (la frontière) avec moi... Même si je trouve que c’est n’importe quoi, au moins, je peux enfin embarquer dans le métro, et c’est le principal.
Une fois passée la frontière (eh oui ! Malgré la rétrocession de Hong-Kong et des «Nouveaux Territoires» en 1997 par la couronne britannique aux autorités chinoises, il existe toujours un statut particulièrement particulier pour Hong-Kong avec, notamment, passage de frontière !), je prends un bus pour sortir de l’agglomération de Shenzhen car il est tard, il pleut et je suis plutôt en retard si je veux toper mon avion à Shanghai le 23 mars...
C’est ainsi que je débarque à Shantou vers les 20H et y trouve un hôtel pas trop cher grâce à l’aide acharnée d’un fort sympathique jeune homme chinois. Le lendemain, je quitte Shantou et parcours mon premier 160 kilomètres de la série de grosses étapes qui m’attend ces jours-ci... Le temps est maussade, le vent est plus ou moins contre, le paysage plat et relativement urbain. Bref, ce n’est pas génial. Heureusement, les chinois sont globalement très sympas avec moi, et c’est toujours beaucoup plus agréable que le récent Vietnam du nord.
Il ne me reste qu’une solution, et il me faut agir vite si je veux l’utiliser. En effet, je vais devoir prendre un bus pour contourner l’estuaire. Je me dis que, de toute façon, un bus ou le bateau, je n’aurais pas parcouru ces kilomètres, alors... Et puis je viens de me taper 8 jours d’étapes de malade mental et c’est physiquement impossible pour moi de parcourir les 300 kilomètres qui me sépare de Shanghai pour arriver demain (oui, je veux absolument être au moins une journée entière sur Shanghai... c’est un minimum, non...). Bref. À 15H je prends un bus en direction de Shanghai et me fais déposer à une sortie d’autoroute à 60 bornes de ma destination finale parce que, quand même, il n’y a pas moyen que j’arrive à Shanghai en bus... Après 19150 Kms ce serait abuser, non ?... Vous comprenez ! Et donc, à 18H j’entame ma deuxième partie d’étape de la journée.
Au fur et à mesure que je me rapproche de Shanghai je sens une irrépressible excitation monter en moi... Je pousse même des petits cris de joie de temps à autres... Je dois avouer que je ne réalise pas bien encore que je viens tout simplement de réaliser ce que je m’étais promis : Rallier Paris à Shanghai sur mon vélo recyclé.
En attendant de vous voir pour de vrai dans la vie, eh ben je vous souhaite pleins de bonnes choses et espère que vous aurez apprécié ces quelques mails collectifs (20 tout de même !) qui vous ont relaté mes aventures de la manière la plus fidèle possible.
A+ les gens, et portez vous bien !
Lionel.
Demain, je vais un peu visiter la ville, prendre des photos et tout et tout, faire quelques courses et préparer mes affaires. Eh oui! Dans seulement deux jours, c’est la vraie fin du voyage car je prends mon avion vers les 10H du matin... En attendant, je suis dans un cyber café pour écrire ce mail et, en même temps, suivre un match de Liverpool en direct sur le net... Il est 4H48.
Et c’est ainsi que le lendemain matin nous entamons une looooongue étape (un peu plus de 200 bornes prévues...). Il fait moyen au niveau du temps, mais comme nous montons pas mal (parfois tractés par des camions, héhéhé !) nous apercevons le soleil entre les nuages et ça nous donne du courage. Avant 14 heures, nous avons franchi les 100 et nous apprêtons à enchaîner les 100 suivant. En fin d’après-midi, Sylvain me fait part de son manque de courage pour continuer avec moi et nous nous séparons à la nuit tombante après plus de 150 kilomètres au compteur. C’est dommage que je sois si pressé car cela m’aurait bien plu d’aller au moins jusqu’à Shanghai avec mon nouveau compagnon de route. Mais bon, je continue. Je n’atteins pas les 200 Kms prévus, mais avec 191, on peut dire que je ne suis pas trop loin... Je prends une chambre sur Rui An Shi et m’y affale, complètement vidé, pour une courte nuit..
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Le lendemain, je me repose un peu, si on peut dire car je n’atteins même pas les 150 (146 tout de même !). Même motif, même punition, on va dire... Les chinois me font toujours cette impression de gens tranquilles vivant leur petite vie peinards... Il faut dire que je suis vraiment agréablement surpris par la Chine que je trouve bien différente de tout ce que j’ai pu lire ou entendre dans les médias si peu manipulateurs que nous avons du côté de chez nous…
Évidemment, je ne vois pas tout… Évidemment, il y a eu Tien an Men, et probablement d’autres trucs du même inexcusable genre... Évidemment, il y a un accident de mine de charbon par jour... Sûrement plus d’ailleurs... Pauvre charbon... Évidemment, une espèce de caste profite du parti unique imposé par une révolution plus que cinquantenaire... Mais, malgré tout ça, l’impression que me fait ce pays est relativement positive. Parce qu’en face de tous ces arguments il y a quand même un truc de poids : 1,3 milliards aux dernières nouvelles... Comment faire vivre, donner un toit et à manger à tout le monde dans un pays qui représente un cinquième de la population mondiale en augmentant en plus, globalement, le niveau de vie général... Eh ben si on prend ça en considération on s’aperçoit que la Chine réussit mieux que le reste du monde (en tant que monde je veux dire !). Je suis convaincu (après avoir voyagé dans la partie la plus peuplée de ce pays) que si l’on retire la Chine des statistiques socio-économiques du monde, on fait grimper les chiffres de la pauvreté.
Attention, qu’on ne me fasse pas dire ce que je n’ai pas dit... Je ne voudrais pas habiter en Chine (globalement un pays de cages à lapins...) et je ne fais pas l’apologie du PC chinois, loin de là. Je dis juste que le portrait de la Chine dans les médias occidentaux est relativement inexact. Et, enfin, contrairement à l’Inde où c’est totalement invisible dans la partie la plus peuplée du pays (hors Bombay, je parle du bassin du Gange), ici, en Chine, l’essor économique se voit dans la population : portables, véhicules, vêtements, nourriture, etc.
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Bref, je suis à Fu Qing Shi et repars pour Ningde le jour suivant. Encore 145 bornes dans mes jambes qui commencent à n’en plus pouvoir ! Cette fois-ci, les étapes de montagne ont recommencé. Ce n’est pas pour me déplaire car, malgré le surplus d’effort que cela représente ça me permet aussi de toucher un peu plus du doigt la réalité de la campagne chinoise. Et puis, comme d’hab., dans les montagnes les gens sont encore plus sympas... Alors... En plus les paysages sont carrément jolis par-là.
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Le lendemain, vers midi, en quittant Ningde, je rencontre un français : Sylvain, avec qui il ne me faut pas discuter plus longtemps que ça pour m’apercevoir qu’il a roulé pendant une dizaine de jours avec mon gars Richard lorsqu’ils étaient en Iran. Donc, indirectement, on se connaissait puisque Richard lui avait parlé de moi. Les suisses aussi (qui l’avaient furtivement croisé en même temps que Richard sur Téhéran) m’avaient mentionné l’existence de ce gars qui venait de rouler avec Richard quand ils l’avaient rencontré.
Il est super surpris qu’un autre cyclovoyageur ait eu la même idée saugrenue que lui de passer par la côte pour atteindre Shanghai... Et moi je suis tout surpris de croiser un autre français que Richard en train de faire un Paris – Shanghai à vélo en même temps que moi... Bon, en fait il est parti de France début mai (2 mois après nous, quand même !) et va continuer au Japon puis aux États-Unis avant de rentrer en France...
Comme il est sympa, je suis content de commencer à rouler avec lui. Nous pouvons discuter et échanger sur nos voyages respectifs tout en roulant (grimpant, on est dans les montagnes !). Le soir, nous sommes à seulement 75 Kms de Ningde, à Fu Jian. On prend un hôtel tous les deux et on sort pour trouver une paire de pédales en vue de remplacer celle de Sylvain qui vient de lâcher. Encore une fois, les chinois que nous sollicitons pour trouver un magasin de vélos se montrent on ne peut plus serviables : ils nous emmènent en voiture, participent à la négociation avec nous et nous ramènent à l’hôtel. Et tout ça juste pour le plaisir de rendre service à deux occidentaux venus faire les zozos à vélo dans leur grand et étrange pays...
En discutant avec Sylvain, je réalise que je vais pouvoir trouver une solution alternative à la prise d’un bus pour me rapprocher de Shanghai. En effet, malgré mes récentes étapes de superman, je suis encore trop loin de Shanghai et si je veux y arriver à temps pour l’avion je vais devoir trouver une solution. Le plus probable étant le bus sur environ 250 ou 300 bornes... Mais Sylvain m’explique qu’on peut prendre un bateau pour traverser l’estuaire de l’autre côté duquel se trouve Shanghai. Il faut pour cela se rendre à Ningbo, à 525 Kms d’où nous nous trouvons en ce moment, et ce, en trois jours. Bien sûr, cela ne m’enchante pas vraiment d’arriver sur Shanghai en bateau… Mais c’est toujours mieux que de prendre le bus. Et puis le bateau arrivera probablement dans un port un peu à l’extérieur de la ville et j’entrerai tout de même dans Shanghai à bicyclette... Et puis, j’ai déjà fait 500 kilomètres en 3 jours (en arrivant sur Bangkok) avec le vent de face en permanence... Alors, ce devrait être jouable. Je dis à Sylvain que je vais le tenter. Lui est partant pour me suivre bien qu’il n’ait pas la même motivation que moi sur ce coup-là.
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En effet, demain je veux absolument arriver le plus tôt possible sur Ningbo pour être sûr de pouvoir prendre le bateau pour Shanghai le jour même. La seule indication que je possède c’est que c’est un bateau qui fait la traversée de nuit. Mais comme j’ai déjà pris des bateaux de nuit qui partaient vers les 16H je dois tout faire pour arriver vers 14 H pour me laisser une marge de manœuvre correcte. Eh oui, nous sommes le 20, et si tout se passe bien je serai le 22 au matin à Shanghai. Mais s’il y a une couille dans le potage, je n’aurais pas beaucoup de marge pour me retourner sur une autre solution.
Bref… Je choisis de commencer mon étape à 5 H du matin. Et, une fois n’est pas coutume, j’arrive même à décoller un peu plus tôt que ça…Je trace, sur un relief globalement plat, avec un vent favorable (quand on parle de la fois qu’est pas coutume !) en direction de Ningbo que j’atteins, tenez vous bien, à 14H17. A 35, je suis au port où l’on m’apprend que, catastrophe, il n’y a pas de bateau pour Shanghai… Ni aujourd’hui, ni jamais… MERDE !!!!!!
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Et me voilà vers 22 Heures sur le Bund (la promenade le long du fleuve) à prendre les « photos officielles » de l’arrivée du gars Yoyo à Shanghai. Je ne réalise toujours pas mais je suis clairement HEUREUX... Et crevé aussi. Les derniers jours ont été épuisants. Je pense que je vais dormir pendant tout le trajet en avion... Au fait... Avant que vous ne posiez la question : Mon compteur indique 19210 Kms. Ce sera son dernier mot...
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