![](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/8a5362_609cda64e76c418c82ef0e6a0fdecacd.jpg/v1/fill/w_1920,h_1440,al_c,q_90,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/8a5362_609cda64e76c418c82ef0e6a0fdecacd.jpg)
Paris-Shanghaï à vélo
MESSAGE N°14, le : 04/11/2005
Wagha - Jodhpur... de bon !
Me voici donc en Inde en compagnie de mes chers petits suisses. Nous passons la frontière sans trop de problèmes. Il est tout de même à noter que c’est la première fois du voyage que l’on me fouille totalement : le vélo et les bagages. Cela se passe du côté pakistanais. En Inde, les douaniers sont plus cools… Il faut dire que ce n’est pas tous les jours qu’ils voient arriver trois énergumènes à vélo comme nous. Bref, nous sommes en Inde et bien contents !!! Tellement contents que mes deux acolytes s’allument un cigare qu’ils traînent depuis je ne sais où… Séance photo obligatoire pour l’événement
![DSCF4068](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c2714d7efd67466e99a231578d300d2f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c2714d7efd67466e99a231578d300d2f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4071](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3700b8541178438687e9c937835ad2d4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3700b8541178438687e9c937835ad2d4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4074](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0f678aff4b244b42960dea8a42e58dd0~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0f678aff4b244b42960dea8a42e58dd0~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4078](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_d7a8420b9c28467ea9e580ec699c0a91~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_d7a8420b9c28467ea9e580ec699c0a91~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4071](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3700b8541178438687e9c937835ad2d4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3700b8541178438687e9c937835ad2d4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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et nous voilà repartis à pédaler en direction d’Amritsar. Nous y sommes en milieu d’après-midi et allons directement visiter le fameux temple d’or.
![DSCF4087](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4119352c6f95408f8fb014c4e2c18ece~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_483,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4119352c6f95408f8fb014c4e2c18ece~mv2.jpg)
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C’est un peu le CHOC avec deux grands « c » et « h » et « o » au milieu. Bref, ça pète ! Le temple en lui-même se trouve au milieu d’un large bassin d’une eau sacrée et aux vertus théoriquement purificatrices. Le bassin est lui-même entouré d’un bâtiment aussi rectangulaire que lui, tout blanc, avec des arcades. C’est tout simplement magnifique ! Nous prenons notre temps, faisons le tour du bassin, observons les sikhs (c’est un temple sikh. Que dis-je ? C’est LE Temple sikh !) se baigner et se purifier, certains armés de sabres et de poignards. Nous remarquons que les sikhs portent des turbans différemment noués selon leur âge.
Avant de passer à autre chose, il me faut vous préciser que ce lieu fut le théâtre d’événements dramatiques en 1984. Des indépendantistes sikhs avaient investi le temple pour mieux faire entendre leurs revendications. Indira Gandhi, alors présidente, envoya l’armée pour les déloger. Le massacre qui s’ensuivit scella aussi son propre destin car, quatre mois plus tard, deux de ses gardes du corps l’assassinaient tranquillement… Il faut dire qu’ils étaient sikhs eux-mêmes, et qu’elle n’avait pas voulu les renvoyer, alors que son entourage le lui conseillait vivement… Ma foi !
Pour le reste, nous allons dormir en face du temple, dans une espèce d’annexe où les pèlerins sont les bienvenus. On nous donne même une chambre assez pratique pour ranger les vélos. Une fois passé le repas, je me paye une virée sur le Net. Lorsque je retrouve mes deux petits suisses, ils ne sont plus qu’un seul ! Nicolas n’a pas résisté à la cuite qu’ils se sont prise en mon absence et dort du sommeil du juste (juste assez fait pour dormir mais pas trop pour régurgiter son repas végétarien, ville sacrée oblige…). Auparavant, ils sont tous deux tombés du cyclo-rickshaw qui les ramenait au temple… Ils ont aussi lutté pour convaincre les gars du temple de les laisser regagner la chambre malgré leur état d’ébriété, et ce, en évitant de piétiner les innombrables indiens dormant à même le sol. Bref, je retrouve Florian qui a un peu décuvé et qui me reconnaît malgré ma fraîche coupe de cheveux. Ensemble, nous décidons d’aller nous baigner minuitement[i] dans l’eau cradement[ii] sacrée du temple. Elle est chaude et ne sent pas très très bon mais nous survivons à l’expérience et ramenons même une jolie photo de notre petite baignade.
[i] Minuitement : Adverbe de minuit.
[ii] Cradement : Adverbe de crade
Le lendemain, nous quittons Amritsar. Je leur propose de nous séparer car je souhaite rallier Delhi assez vite, afin de préparer l’arrivée de Fabien et Sabine, dans une dizaine de jours. Je passe donc ma première journée seul depuis un moment et ça me fait du bien. Je suppose que pour eux ce doit être un peu pareil. Je leur recommande toutefois, avant de les quitter, de bien faire attention, maintenant que je sais de quoi ils sont capables…
A la sortie d’un village, je tombe sur mes premiers singes, des macaques. Petite pause photo, distribution de bananes, vol du reste de mes bananes par ces mêmes singes pendant que je regarde ailleurs, et je repars en direction de Jalandhar. J’y arrive le soir même, de nuit, accompagné par une sympathique indienne en scooter avec ses deux enfants et qui me propose de m’aider à trouver un hôtel en ville. Malheureusement, elle ne connaît que les hôtels chers. J’apprécie tout de même son aide et finis par me trouver un hôtel bon marché dans un quartier assez sordide, comme toujours, près de la gare routière.
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Le jour suivant, je repars et ai la jolie surprise de tomber sur mes petits suisses en train de se rafraîchir d’un bon jus d’orange verte le long de la route. Nous sommes bien contents de nous retrouver et décidons de poursuivre ensemble jusqu’au soir, à Ludhiana. Nous y trouvons un hôtel encore très bon marché et nous couchons assez tôt.
![DSCF4160](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_35c83bc32c3b480683134acbceea58ec~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_35c83bc32c3b480683134acbceea58ec~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
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Le lendemain, nous repartons de Ludhiana avec en tête l’idée de visiter l’usine des cycles HERO. Car vous ne le savez peut-être pas plus que nous avant de mettre les pieds dans le nord du Punjab indien, mais Ludhiana possède la particularité d’être le siège de l’entreprise de cycles HERO. Et donc, par conséquent, d’être la ville où se trouve la plus grande usine de vélos du monde. J’ai pas dit du Punjab, ou d’Inde, ou même du continent asiatique… Non, non ! Du MONDE que c’est la plus grosse usine de vélos. Du monde, oui monsieur ! Et oui Madame ! Ça vous la coupe, hein ? ! ?
Quoiqu’il en soit, l’usine se trouve sur la route de Delhi à la sortie de Ludhiana et nous nous y rendons en fin de matinée. Nous rencontrons le gars qui s’occupe du département exportation vers l’Europe et il nous confirme qu’il n’y a aucun problème pour visiter l’usine. Il faut dire que nous avons finement joué le coup, si je puis dire, puisque nous nous sommes présentés comme des passionnés de vélo avec pour preuve notre venue jusqu’en Inde depuis l’Europe à Bicyclette.
Comme c’est la pause repas, il nous propose de revenir une bonne heure plus tard. Entre temps, je lui ai posé un tas de questions et ai fini par apprendre qu’entre autres ils fournissent aussi Décathlon. Par exemple, le cadre du B’tween (gros succès de l’enseigne, en tout cas à Noël dernier…) sort directement de l’usine de Ludhiana et est expédié vers la France où il est complété par les autres éléments du vélo. Autre exemple, pour une marque anglaise de vélos pour enfants, ils fabriquent le vélo de A à Z. Je réalise alors que nous touchons pleinement la mondialisation du doigt.
Après un excellent repas dans la cantine des cadres (pas des vélos, des cadres de l’entreprise) la visite commence. Nous sommes impressionnés par les équipements et par le nombre d’ateliers et d’éléments différents qu’il faut prendre en compte dans la création d’un vélo. Nous commençons par l’atelier peinture, puis continuons par les ateliers de soudure. Nous tenons aussi à voir comment ils font pour les roues. Eh bien sachez, jeunes et moins jeunes gens, qu’il s’agit d’une lame de métal d’une dizaine de centimètres de large sortant d’un rouleau de plusieurs dizaines de mètres et qui passe dans une machine qui la plie, puis la replie sur elle-même avant de la courber pour en faire un presque cercle qu’un ouvrier finira par souder et balancer sur un portique juste à côté. Ensuite, d’autres ouvriers insèreront les rayons à raison d’une bonne demi-heure par roue (ce qui représente finalement, une fois mis en perspective, beaucoup moins de temps qu’il ne vous en faut pour lire mes messages…).
Bref, nous ressortons de l’usine vraiment heureux d’avoir fait la démarche de la visiter. En plus, l’accueil fut carrément bon. On nous a offert le repas et prêté un gars pendant une bonne heure pour nous montrer l’usine.
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![DSCF4195](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_48e663ebd2a94dd29b651faaf19fd5be~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_48e663ebd2a94dd29b651faaf19fd5be~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4204](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_77067254882842438ec260e52c8b90b0~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_77067254882842438ec260e52c8b90b0~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4205](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_508881bd42604e77a8ecb98fc9453b11~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_508881bd42604e77a8ecb98fc9453b11~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4207](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_82a5af4c57cd475eb7216fc624565bb7~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_82a5af4c57cd475eb7216fc624565bb7~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4212](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_97d4eed1daa643cca4ef918ce06e59a2~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_97d4eed1daa643cca4ef918ce06e59a2~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4211](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_bb2fd3006c774a97a85535a341f57041~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_bb2fd3006c774a97a85535a341f57041~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4210](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_386de52e2ade43998400956f94e57e9f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_386de52e2ade43998400956f94e57e9f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
Nous repartons ensuite, nous séparant de nouveau. De mon côté, je pousse jusqu’à Sihind où je compte bien visiter le temple sikh et la mosquée le lendemain. Je dors dans un daba, et me dirige, dès le matin suivant, vers le temple que je visite rapidement. C’est joli et tout blanc. Commencer une journée comme ça fait toujours plaisir.
![DSCF4222](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_5e4608c8bd694fbcac931feace175107~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_5e4608c8bd694fbcac931feace175107~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![INde007](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_740c1382a7a548f8b06a8916d7492dbd~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_645,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_740c1382a7a548f8b06a8916d7492dbd~mv2.jpg)
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![INde046](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0633bc04d7564ba9b4a456a138917701~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_641,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0633bc04d7564ba9b4a456a138917701~mv2.jpg)
![INde008](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b48b082aa3e34b45a16ecd7069ff29d2~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_687,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b48b082aa3e34b45a16ecd7069ff29d2~mv2.jpg)
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![INde013](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_1cf12383cb62427c97c4fb3628197172~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_660,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_1cf12383cb62427c97c4fb3628197172~mv2.jpg)
![INde012](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_d1b0d79e8559480db9e944b60df4e1d3~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_663,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_d1b0d79e8559480db9e944b60df4e1d3~mv2.jpg)
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![DSCF4225](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3f2e8c6a71154949aa11ae0fc487e583~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3f2e8c6a71154949aa11ae0fc487e583~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4226](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_10195b0bfab047bdb4d184a573131b24~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_10195b0bfab047bdb4d184a573131b24~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4235](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_46ca40ef1e5c4f8fa91a9bb3a8a77b15~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_46ca40ef1e5c4f8fa91a9bb3a8a77b15~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4230](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_fe72eee8b9544d84ab44c98f8fbe5ca9~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_fe72eee8b9544d84ab44c98f8fbe5ca9~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4237](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3a13d2faa4c7408ba1bde22c37665785~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3a13d2faa4c7408ba1bde22c37665785~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4240](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_d6b4fe3950054f368a382aab538fb55b~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_d6b4fe3950054f368a382aab538fb55b~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4245](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4c5f2cd55fb34abf8410db2b77015528~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4c5f2cd55fb34abf8410db2b77015528~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![img879](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_2c05033ba4124a399acb0355055542f1~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_623,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_2c05033ba4124a399acb0355055542f1~mv2.jpg)
![INde007](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_740c1382a7a548f8b06a8916d7492dbd~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_645,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_740c1382a7a548f8b06a8916d7492dbd~mv2.jpg)
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![INde046](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0633bc04d7564ba9b4a456a138917701~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_641,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0633bc04d7564ba9b4a456a138917701~mv2.jpg)
![INde008](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b48b082aa3e34b45a16ecd7069ff29d2~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_687,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b48b082aa3e34b45a16ecd7069ff29d2~mv2.jpg)
![INde006](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_cd802c8597dc4e4aa89e26f67721b3f1~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_722,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_cd802c8597dc4e4aa89e26f67721b3f1~mv2.jpg)
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![INde013](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_1cf12383cb62427c97c4fb3628197172~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_660,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_1cf12383cb62427c97c4fb3628197172~mv2.jpg)
![INde012](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_d1b0d79e8559480db9e944b60df4e1d3~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_663,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_d1b0d79e8559480db9e944b60df4e1d3~mv2.jpg)
![INde016](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4f0c8aa765fc4f979f36e09cfc435871~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_679,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4f0c8aa765fc4f979f36e09cfc435871~mv2.jpg)
![INde014](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_bbee14347e6245b086053f136e03c5a6~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_665,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_bbee14347e6245b086053f136e03c5a6~mv2.jpg)
![INde015](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_1d334c51ecb242b49281ce4ae7d1aa45~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_635,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_1d334c51ecb242b49281ce4ae7d1aa45~mv2.jpg)
Je visite ensuite une mosquée soi-disant très importante pour le monde musulman mais suis un peu déçu car elle ne me paraît en rien extraordinaire…
Puis, je continue en direction de Chandigarh. En effet, j’ai décidé de faire le détour afin d’aller voir cette ville nouvelle créée par Le Corbusier peu après l’indépendance, au début des années 50. Comme j’ai déjà vu Brasilia et Islamabad, ce sera une bonne occasion de voir un autre exemple de ville planifiée dans un pays en voie de développement.
Par cette belle journée (j’entends par « belle » : ensoleillée. En gros, elles sont toutes belles depuis la Turquie), je pédale tranquillement sur de petites routes avec maintenant régulièrement des singes un peu partout. J’arrive à Chandigarh en milieu d’après-midi. Je me dirige vers l’hôtel le moins cher qu’indique mon guide et y rencontre un français qui me propose de partager sa chambre afin de diviser les coûts… Il faut dire que pas cher à Chandigarh c’est pas pareil que dans le reste du pays. Ici, c’est pas vraiment l’Inde. Les rues sont larges, propres, et on ne voit aucun embouteillage. Les gens semblent même y conduire presque normalement… Vous l’aurez compris, Chandigarh est une ville assez riche. Ceci est en partie dû au statut clairement particulier de la ville.
Que je vous explique. Le Punjab, grenier du sous-continent indien, coupé en deux lors de la partition au moment de l’indépendance, en 1947, avait pour capitale Lahore. Or, Lahore s’est retrouvée de l’autre côté de la frontière, au Pakistan. Il a donc fallu se procurer une nouvelle capitale. Amritsar, ville un peu jumelle de Lahore (à 60 kilomètres seulement) était la candidate naturelle. Mais, elle se situait trop près de la frontière. On décida donc de créer Chandigarh pour être la nouvelle capitale du Punjab indien et l’on en confia la planification à Le Corbusier. Entre-temps, le Punjab indien fut à nouveau amputé d’une grosse partie de lui-même afin de créer le nouvel état de l’Haryana. Et, vous l’aurez deviné : Chandigarh se retrouva (de peu) du côté Haryana et le Punjab, lui, à nouveau sans capitale. Qu’à cela ne tienne, il fut décidé que Chandigarh serait à la fois la capitale de l’Haryana (jusque-là c’est normal) mais aussi du Punjab ! Conclusion, Chandigarh est la capitale d’un état dans lequel elle ne se trouve même pas. Et c’est bien cette fonction de double capitale dont profite grassement la ville. Etonnant, non ?!?
Mon colloc. d’un soir est lyonnais et étudie l’Architecture en suisse. Il est surpris de rencontrer un non-architecte en ces lieux de pèlerinages architecturaux. Nous nous rendons ensemble vers les bâtiments officiels édifiés par Le Corbusier afin de les visiter. Malheureusement, je n’ai ni l’autorisation de l’office du tourisme, ni mon passeport sur moi et ils ne me laissent pas entrer. Tant pis… J’en profite pour me rendre dans l’autre attraction majeure de Chandigarh : Le Parc Chen So (ou quelque chose comme ça). Il s’agit d’un parc créé à partir des innombrables sculptures réalisées par monsieur Chen So, un ex-employé des ponts et chaussées indiens qui s’est mis en tête, il y a de cela plus de 40 ans, de réutiliser ce que les gens jetaient pour en faire des sculptures. Le résultat est d’autant plus étonnant que le cadre du parc est magnifique. De petites collines artificielles par-ci, des cascades par-là, ou bien encore de mini temples disséminés à droite à gauche. Et puis, bien sûr, les étranges sculptures de Chen So qui peuplent ce parc hallucinant.
Je ressors du parc enchanté d’avoir oublié mon passeport et finalement pu profiter de cet endroit plutôt que des bâtiments officiels…
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![INde045](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4a9a1ff610f94ca7896fc77f3bf2d1e5~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_623,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4a9a1ff610f94ca7896fc77f3bf2d1e5~mv2.jpg)
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Une bonne nuit à l’hôtel et me voici reparti en direction de Delhi. En quittant l’hôtel, je croise un allemand dont vous ne devinerez jamais la profession (non ce n’est pas remplisseur de tubes de dentifrices à la main…) : architecte… Les deux touristes que j’ai croisés ici étaient donc architectes… Etrange, non ? ! ?
Et me voici à pédaler sous le soleil indien en direction de Patiala que je souhaite atteindre le soir même. C’est chose faite quelques heures plus tard malgré une nouvelle pause singes…
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Le lendemain matin, je visite le fort de Patiala, de l’extérieur seulement, car il est dans un tel état de délabrement qu’il est interdit d’y pénétrer. En visitant le musée contigu, je réalise à quel point les armes sont les objets les mieux conservés et les plus abondants des musées du sous-continent… Je suis dégoûté de voir toutes ces armes, plus inventives les unes que les autres, qui n’ont toujours qu’un seul but : tuer, transpercer, étriper, faire de la chair à saucisse avec celui d’en face… Quelle tristesse…
Et je repars, toujours vers Delhi que je compte atteindre dans 2 jours. En sortant de Patiala je ressens une absence dans mon dos. Malheur ! J’ai oublié le ballon que je me trimballais depuis la frontière autrichienne. Que de sottises dans un si petit corps… Je bats des records moi...
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![INde039](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_786045fdebb1408c86bb0ceb2a38a735~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_638,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_786045fdebb1408c86bb0ceb2a38a735~mv2.jpg)
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![INde039](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_786045fdebb1408c86bb0ceb2a38a735~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_638,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_786045fdebb1408c86bb0ceb2a38a735~mv2.jpg)
![DSCF4373](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_8973ed1efe2d4c94b3ad3457b6f536f8~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_8973ed1efe2d4c94b3ad3457b6f536f8~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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Après deux jours de vélos sans histoire (dont un petit 130 Kms qui me prouve que je vais de mieux en mieux rapport à ma santé...), je suis à Delhi.
![DSCF4381](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b594956e67324a7682ed46bc2b60f239~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b594956e67324a7682ed46bc2b60f239~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4380](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_7469bff8629e4d4880e33ff727d73eff~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_7469bff8629e4d4880e33ff727d73eff~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
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Je me rends à l'hôtel où je dois retrouver mes petits suisses mais impossible de mettre la main sur les zigotos en question. Il faut dire que j'ai un jour de retard par rapport au rendez-vous prévu. Et comme vous savez, les suisses ne rigolent pas quand il s'agit de ponctualité. Je m'aperçois, à la lecture du registre de l'hôtel, qu'ils l'ont quitté 2 heures avant mon arrivée. C'est dommage, mais bon, je les retrouverai le lendemain soir car ils m'ont laissé un message sur Internet. Ce soir, je me désespère en regardant mon équipe favorite se prendre un carton (4-1) absolument non mérité par Chelski... Quelle tristesse, là encore !
Le jour suivant, je commence à visiter Delhi et me rend jusqu'au fort rouge qui, en plus d'avoir l'air vraiment intéressant, est fermé. Je me console en visitant la plus grande mosquée d'Inde, juste en face. Elle rappelle étrangement celle de Lahore.
Le soir, je retrouve avec grand plaisir mes deux compères helvètes et nous fêtons nos énièmes retrouvailles par une bonne pizza dans la Hutte aux pizzas près de mon hôtel. Nous terminons la soirée à tchatcher sur la terrasse de l’auberge, et ils finissent par squatter une des chambres inoccupées avant de regagner leur propre hôtel (à 12 bornes) au petit matin. Cela me vaudra les reproches nourris des gérants de l'hôtel que je n'hésite pas à renvoyer à leurs propres responsabilités, le tout avec une énergie qui me prouve à nouveau, si besoin en était, que je vais mieux !!!
Les suisses et moi continuons notre découverte de Delhi les deux jours suivants, tranquillement, avec notamment la visite du magnifique mausolée d'Humayun, l'un des quelques empereurs moghols qui ont régné sur l'Inde du Nord entre 16ème et 18ème siècle. Les moghols sont les principaux responsables de l'influence islamique dans le nord du sous-continent indien et le mausolée d'Humayun, tout comme le Taj Mahal (du même architecte je crois) en sont deux exemples frappants.
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![DSCF4440](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_7e1545983ea34f1d99e6aabdaaacbf65~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_7e1545983ea34f1d99e6aabdaaacbf65~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4443](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b4c644e40e184aadadab515538201213~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b4c644e40e184aadadab515538201213~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4444](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_db87e61c4d954824bcf68c95fd8eb538~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_407,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_db87e61c4d954824bcf68c95fd8eb538~mv2.jpg)
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Enfin, le 5 au matin, mes amis Sabine et Fabien arrivent à Delhi. Je me lève un peu tard en comptant sur l'inévitable retard d'avion dont je suis victime à chaque fois que je vais attendre quelqu'un dans un aéroport... Malheureusement, cette fois-ci l'avion est à l'heure et le débarquement est très rapide. Résultat, nous nous croisons sur le chemin entre l'hôtel et l'aéroport et j'en suis quitte pour un aller-retour pour rien à l’Indira Gandhi International Airport... Quand je reviens à l'hôtel c'est avec une immense joie que je retrouve mes amis qui m'attendent en petit déjeunant... Nous avons plein de choses à nous raconter et sommes vraiment contents de nous retrouver.
Une fois installés, nous allons faire un petit tour. Je leur présente les petits suisses avec qui nous mangeons le soir même. Le lendemain, une fois les vélos achetés (ils vont rouler avec moi !), nous visitons le fort de Delhi ainsi que deux ou trois petits temples.
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![DSCF4402](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0b14bbedcb3e40a08eba341fb643ef0d~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_457,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0b14bbedcb3e40a08eba341fb643ef0d~mv2.jpg)
![DSCF4493](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3f2b612de8dc4a81956d4fc8992fc09a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3f2b612de8dc4a81956d4fc8992fc09a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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Et le jour suivant, assez tôt, après nos adieux à Florian et Nico, nous prenons le train pour Agra et son mondialement fameux Taj Mahal. Nous investissons l'hôtel repéré dans le guide mais apprenons que le Taj Mahal est fermé aujourd'hui car c’est vendredi : Jour de prière (en plus c'est le ramadan) et la mosquée qui jouxte le Taj Mahal est un lieu important pour les nombreux musulmans du coin. Tant pis ! Nous le visiterons demain. En attendant, nous profitons de la vue depuis la terrasse de l'hôtel.
Nous passons cette journée à visiter le magnifique fort rouge (que je préfère de loin à celui de Delhi) ainsi que le marché (avec nos vélos, épisode épique !).
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![DSCF4556](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_ffae30ecc9c3461c90961696ad20d049~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_ffae30ecc9c3461c90961696ad20d049~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4558](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_59cbd48b188e40ed8e86c3a168af1556~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_59cbd48b188e40ed8e86c3a168af1556~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4560](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_cc23d4a8e7ea43c8aec0d894f1563b16~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_cc23d4a8e7ea43c8aec0d894f1563b16~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4562](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_e84f4b829a1c4b32adafc395f85be9c2~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_e84f4b829a1c4b32adafc395f85be9c2~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4561](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f1c850fb55c047678e66b177ba019951~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f1c850fb55c047678e66b177ba019951~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4563](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0714ed0420f24ca49e0adc46c60f5eb5~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0714ed0420f24ca49e0adc46c60f5eb5~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4565](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_1ea57dd5f84145da9b3160cc9f7201ef~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_1ea57dd5f84145da9b3160cc9f7201ef~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4564](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f1fec639d7214d709751ad83bd991099~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f1fec639d7214d709751ad83bd991099~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4566](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4bb6fbdea8874533ade2d3cf9017d11e~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4bb6fbdea8874533ade2d3cf9017d11e~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4567](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0b89332475fd4a82a6aff9d85884a5cf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0b89332475fd4a82a6aff9d85884a5cf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4568](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_a9c758225a1745b2852f4c9b67575ccf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_a9c758225a1745b2852f4c9b67575ccf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4569](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_ef88e133d8a7450899a5c6524c971ea1~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_ef88e133d8a7450899a5c6524c971ea1~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![INde057](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_ebb112e6247b4179bfd8da89d2bebbfd~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_635,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_ebb112e6247b4179bfd8da89d2bebbfd~mv2.jpg)
![DSCF4523](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f25a660a5f7546b5919dd3b13395d779~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f25a660a5f7546b5919dd3b13395d779~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4524](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_8703c5fc866a4a09953e1dd9996a819e~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_8703c5fc866a4a09953e1dd9996a819e~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4525](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_9f3196a626e3437482b0b39eefca372a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_9f3196a626e3437482b0b39eefca372a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4526](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_7689088ead774d28b80edb89c5371dd6~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_7689088ead774d28b80edb89c5371dd6~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4527](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_bb8645a662d84b02a6ac1e8d11a31d6f~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_bb8645a662d84b02a6ac1e8d11a31d6f~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4528](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_79d909440b954aacaf6c176d206843ca~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_79d909440b954aacaf6c176d206843ca~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4529](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_7af45018a73941048ba99ff5894f0e75~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_7af45018a73941048ba99ff5894f0e75~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4531](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3870940c772d4252b9b257c833874fec~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3870940c772d4252b9b257c833874fec~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4532](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_cfa6cfc1919d4dcead0f0a65ec33f0f3~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_cfa6cfc1919d4dcead0f0a65ec33f0f3~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4533](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f54b02ab413f4923ad036fbc15a954d6~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f54b02ab413f4923ad036fbc15a954d6~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4534](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b222489b43f647d6b4cb23c5deb6d5d4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b222489b43f647d6b4cb23c5deb6d5d4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4535](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4d09640e099247ed82a9dcd8b9a8d4ea~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4d09640e099247ed82a9dcd8b9a8d4ea~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4536](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b0366f9c8d7e460ba2ade1840a500138~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b0366f9c8d7e460ba2ade1840a500138~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4537](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_906a1d6ae63848d6b0bc1e39cb68f3cc~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_906a1d6ae63848d6b0bc1e39cb68f3cc~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4538](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_cd795d261fee4c0f9eecd116876ae8ae~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_cd795d261fee4c0f9eecd116876ae8ae~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4540](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_7e700f9693344d38a2ded51777f3e7b3~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_7e700f9693344d38a2ded51777f3e7b3~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4541](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_38c95b57203d46f3a68f608f67a7f063~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_38c95b57203d46f3a68f608f67a7f063~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4542](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_afd1c1f6c31b48dfa7e4ecc734db5a60~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_afd1c1f6c31b48dfa7e4ecc734db5a60~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4543](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_ff4aa5e382114510b1ccd682eaebecbc~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_ff4aa5e382114510b1ccd682eaebecbc~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4545](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_cb3768e39aa649edb81d9483c517fe58~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_cb3768e39aa649edb81d9483c517fe58~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4546](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_2cab2820c4624f4c98fa449a2d7be2cb~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_2cab2820c4624f4c98fa449a2d7be2cb~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4544](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_afa8fe01a6974dbf99f1fdcea30006c5~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_630,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_afa8fe01a6974dbf99f1fdcea30006c5~mv2.jpg)
![DSCF4547](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_229274624d604fc6b4fe0bc522388e18~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_229274624d604fc6b4fe0bc522388e18~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4549](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_d875a64a053b4f4e825438025de3f636~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_d875a64a053b4f4e825438025de3f636~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4548](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_7ed624bb3f8e4acdafe92dc6338aef5a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_7ed624bb3f8e4acdafe92dc6338aef5a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4550](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_20f97d330216482780356306688ea399~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_20f97d330216482780356306688ea399~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4552](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_6d54d2a92384442c9d6b41a911df14d8~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_6d54d2a92384442c9d6b41a911df14d8~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4553](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_43564929ac744d7891fcea91aa4a621b~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_43564929ac744d7891fcea91aa4a621b~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4555](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c03f09844d5d4afa93fca29f39ac1354~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c03f09844d5d4afa93fca29f39ac1354~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4556](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_ffae30ecc9c3461c90961696ad20d049~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_ffae30ecc9c3461c90961696ad20d049~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4557](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_6699e81e8ee64b519ae2376178f080f7~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_6699e81e8ee64b519ae2376178f080f7~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4558](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_59cbd48b188e40ed8e86c3a168af1556~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_59cbd48b188e40ed8e86c3a168af1556~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4560](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_cc23d4a8e7ea43c8aec0d894f1563b16~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_cc23d4a8e7ea43c8aec0d894f1563b16~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4562](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_e84f4b829a1c4b32adafc395f85be9c2~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_e84f4b829a1c4b32adafc395f85be9c2~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4561](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f1c850fb55c047678e66b177ba019951~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f1c850fb55c047678e66b177ba019951~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4563](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0714ed0420f24ca49e0adc46c60f5eb5~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0714ed0420f24ca49e0adc46c60f5eb5~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4565](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_1ea57dd5f84145da9b3160cc9f7201ef~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_1ea57dd5f84145da9b3160cc9f7201ef~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4564](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f1fec639d7214d709751ad83bd991099~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f1fec639d7214d709751ad83bd991099~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4566](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4bb6fbdea8874533ade2d3cf9017d11e~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4bb6fbdea8874533ade2d3cf9017d11e~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4567](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0b89332475fd4a82a6aff9d85884a5cf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0b89332475fd4a82a6aff9d85884a5cf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4568](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_a9c758225a1745b2852f4c9b67575ccf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_a9c758225a1745b2852f4c9b67575ccf~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4569](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_ef88e133d8a7450899a5c6524c971ea1~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_ef88e133d8a7450899a5c6524c971ea1~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![INde057](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_ebb112e6247b4179bfd8da89d2bebbfd~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_635,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_ebb112e6247b4179bfd8da89d2bebbfd~mv2.jpg)
Et puis, le lendemain...
Ce matin, 8 octobre, je me lève aux aurores pour faire partie des tous premiers à entrer dans le parc du monument pour y prendre des jolies photos du lever du soleil sur l'édifice. Quelle n'est pas ma surprise quand je vois une file d'une vingtaine de mètres devant la porte est (la moins utilisée...) alors qu'il est à peine 6 heure du mat' ! C'est déprimant... Enfin, je fais partie moi aussi de ce malheureux état des choses. Quoiqu'il en soit, une fois à l'intérieur, j'oublie les nombreux touristes. Le site est magique. Le Taj Mahal, qui est une tombe, semble être un monument parfait. Les lignes, les courbes et, surtout, l'équilibre général, sont d'une incroyable pureté. La couleur blanche du marbre utilisé pour la construction de l'ensemble fait ressortir le mausolée du fond de ciel bleu et du premier plan de pelouses et fontaines divinement entretenues.
Après deux heures à flâner dans ce coin de paradis je regagne l'hôtel et me recouche. Quand je me relève, Fab et Sab ont aussi émergé. Après le repas, en fin d'après-midi, nous nous dirigeons ensemble vers le Taj Mahal. Je parviens à entrer de nouveau sans avoir à rien repayer car j'ai un peu sympathisé avec un des gardes le matin même. Cette fois-ci, c'est avec Fabien et Sabine que je profite pour la deuxième fois en une journée de cet incomparable monument. Le coucher de soleil sur le mausolée est particulièrement apprécié.
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Puis, le jour suivant, nous passons aux choses sérieuses : le vélo. Il fait chaud et nous mettons une bonne heure à sortir d'Agra. Le côté débile mental des chauffeurs indiens (quelque soit le véhicule, pieds compris...) impressionne et oppresse mes amis. Moi, je suis habitué, mais ça m'énerve toujours autant ! Une fois sur la route il y a un peu plus d'ombre. Mais les camions qui nous rasent régulièrement, en klaxonnant comme si le Pakistan attaquait, intranquillisent[i] (néologisme euphémistique dont je ne suis pas peu fier...) mes compagnons. Finalement, après 3 bonnes heures et une pause, nous arrivons à Fatehpur Sikri où nous nous restaurons avant d'entamer la visite des ruines d'une ancienne capitale du coin... Malheureusement, la mosquée est fermée pour deux bonnes heures car ils attendent la visite d’un VIP… Déjà qu’à la base j’abhorre le concept même de VIP, mais alors là c’est le pompon ! Sabine et moi en profitons pour faire un petit tour parmi les ruines pendant que Fabien se repose un peu. Nous hallucinons tout d’abord sur des mômes qui se baignent dans les douves dont l’eau est verte, mais vert fluo, si vous voyez… Des mômes qui plongent dans des égouts quoi… Bienvenue en Inde !
Quand nous revenons de notre sympathique petit tour, nous visitons la mosquée car le VIP est enfin venividireparti…
[i] Intranquillisent : Verbe intranquilliser (enlever la tranquillité !) conjugué à la troisième personne du pluriel au présent de l’indicatif.
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Puis, nous décidons de mettre les vélos dans une jeep pour faire les 20 kilomètres qui nous séparent de Bharatpur car il commence à faire nuit, mes compagnons sont un peu fatigués et en plus je viens de crever.
Le jour suivant est dédié à la visite du parc national de Bharatpur. Il s’agit d’un parc inscrit au patrimoine mondial de l’Unesco. C’est avant tout un refuge pour oiseaux migrateurs mais l’on y trouve pas mal de petits et moyens mammifères, et même, paraîtrait-il, un tigre qui y fut aperçu il y a quelques années de cela… La journée est exceptionnelle. Moi qui doutait un peu de l’opportunité que nous aurions de croiser des oiseaux ou d’autres animaux je suis enchanté de tout ce que nous voyons et je remercie Fab et Sab d’avoir eu la bonne idée de me recommander cet endroit. En effet, nous y prenons en photo tout un tas d’animaux, des espèces de biches, faons ou autres grands machins proches du renne ; des oiseaux plus ou moins grands, attirés par les marais créés sur le site au 17ème siècle par le maharadja local pour avoir une réserve d’animaux sauvages pour sa chasse…
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Le jour suivant, nous mettons les vélos dans un bus qui manque de partir sans moi, une partie de nos bagages et avec Fabien sur le toit… Je m’énerve méchamment et tout rentre dans l’ordre, mais bon, ça reste chiant de toujours avoir à s’énerver… Notre destination du jour est Jaipur. Nous y arrivons après 5 heures de tape-cul parsemées de moments dignes d’un grand prix de F1 couplé à des montagnes russes et du stock-car… Nous nous perdons de vue avec Fabien et Sabine entre le terminal de bus et l’hôtel, mais nous nous retrouvons finalement à celui que nous avions prévu : l’Evergreen.
Et le lendemain, nous commençons les visites par le centre de cette soi-disant ville rose (couleur de l’hospitalité, peinte ainsi à l’occasion d’une visite d’un roi anglais il y a plus d’un siècle), plus ocre que rose en fait, et pas partout.
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![DSCF4809](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0ea30891d8da45e798096bcc675dd5ed~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0ea30891d8da45e798096bcc675dd5ed~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4810](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_8ca20382ef6443918d226686f5dda23b~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_8ca20382ef6443918d226686f5dda23b~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4812](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f7d12f4d90c246eabb10a6bdc38cf14e~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f7d12f4d90c246eabb10a6bdc38cf14e~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4813](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_53e563eb2afe424386e4ebee2e6cc484~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_53e563eb2afe424386e4ebee2e6cc484~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4814](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_7030246c2a3e44dea17088d984218788~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_7030246c2a3e44dea17088d984218788~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4815](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_197a4c7fd2204966b3209a4364ced741~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_197a4c7fd2204966b3209a4364ced741~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4816](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_2bc46409f0444180a1d689746bb6184c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_2bc46409f0444180a1d689746bb6184c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4817](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_43ab852fd92a4d029f3b0d8f893959dc~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_43ab852fd92a4d029f3b0d8f893959dc~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4818](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_6e717acdba8f43c4be2cc62e1e8375d8~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_6e717acdba8f43c4be2cc62e1e8375d8~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4816](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_2bc46409f0444180a1d689746bb6184c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_2bc46409f0444180a1d689746bb6184c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
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D’abord, nous allons voir l’observatoire à ciel ouvert. Cet observatoire astronomique fut construit sous Jai Singh II, un des maharadjas de la courte dynastie des moghols ayant régnés sur l’Inde et qui était féru et passionné d’astronomie. L’endroit est agréable et particulièrement ludique. On y trouve notamment un cadran solaire de 27 m de haut et dont l’ombre bouge de 4 m par heure : impressionnant !
![DSCF4819](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_df7330f94cd3495ba5140d7739551e24~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_df7330f94cd3495ba5140d7739551e24~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4821](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b3b53380b74747538ce1a46a2d4f4954~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b3b53380b74747538ce1a46a2d4f4954~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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Nous poursuivons par le city palace qui est assez joli. Nous y admirons un pantalon et une espèce de robe de chambre de Mawai Madho Singh 1, un bonhomme de 2 m pour 250 Kg… Fabien et moi cherchons, et trouvons, une représentation graphique de l’engin : É-NORME !
![DSCF4842](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_6619f1b1c32e4be0b29b5a2380e3cbad~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_6619f1b1c32e4be0b29b5a2380e3cbad~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
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![DSCF4848](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_86ac1e0bc3b249709ddd95f79e1262e3~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_86ac1e0bc3b249709ddd95f79e1262e3~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4849](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_d62623e6108b40e0b92d22ecbb5667c3~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_d62623e6108b40e0b92d22ecbb5667c3~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4851](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b05abd120eed4a28ad652bab99041c10~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b05abd120eed4a28ad652bab99041c10~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4852](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_2ae7787cccff416c87fd7c8728bf9ca1~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_2ae7787cccff416c87fd7c8728bf9ca1~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4855](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3fe5faf313cd44e3bf35329882bd335f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3fe5faf313cd44e3bf35329882bd335f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4853](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4364df0cc9fb4e3e84af6746b4a36759~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4364df0cc9fb4e3e84af6746b4a36759~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4854](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_3e52d0f2c5a44b77ab8db4b84a975596~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_3e52d0f2c5a44b77ab8db4b84a975596~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4856](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_bc60716c285246a0b2058ec084b6be3f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_bc60716c285246a0b2058ec084b6be3f~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4858](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_856b432d0eee4f03906bf4ee98e176e4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_856b432d0eee4f03906bf4ee98e176e4~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4857](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4641cd84e2ca4ba986fcd538af05cfc2~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4641cd84e2ca4ba986fcd538af05cfc2~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4859](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c9526ec379344ab297e31f3dcdf5e08b~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c9526ec379344ab297e31f3dcdf5e08b~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4860](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4a8fb7f0c2db4be1acaa569484ae7866~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4a8fb7f0c2db4be1acaa569484ae7866~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4861](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_00304c5bcdee4bc5a40755abb2adf391~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_00304c5bcdee4bc5a40755abb2adf391~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4862](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_cd5cafa7e1cf4b7b8acc001f37295c46~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_cd5cafa7e1cf4b7b8acc001f37295c46~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4863](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_623239d61af047baaeefefe06447d26a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_623239d61af047baaeefefe06447d26a~mv2_d_1600_1200_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4864](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b1e98020f8ad4f16a170771ad93ff9c3~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b1e98020f8ad4f16a170771ad93ff9c3~mv2_d_1200_1600_s_2.jpg)
![zzz094_exposure](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_534cac35f5a14a73b50329441c02c904~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_638,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_534cac35f5a14a73b50329441c02c904~mv2.jpg)
![zzz089_exposure](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_d599afd9e0cd41979d9933934e82f232~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_633,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_d599afd9e0cd41979d9933934e82f232~mv2.jpg)
![zzz093_exposure](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f32366a8bd3a4a90a981447c10b1ecc8~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1512,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f32366a8bd3a4a90a981447c10b1ecc8~mv2.jpg)
![zzz098_exposure](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_0ff7b479f5a84f11a23a6639b41a243a~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_633,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_0ff7b479f5a84f11a23a6639b41a243a~mv2.jpg)
![zzz103_exposure](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_8abc482833e14231a58abfda5a06c1ab~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_623,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_8abc482833e14231a58abfda5a06c1ab~mv2.jpg)
![zzz108_exposure](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_6a83f62d1a0e4a409a51024eaff3a108~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_633,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_6a83f62d1a0e4a409a51024eaff3a108~mv2.jpg)
![zzz116_exposure](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_37c473cc26cf4e4fb5df88075b781e3b~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_637,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_37c473cc26cf4e4fb5df88075b781e3b~mv2.jpg)
Nous nous rendons ensuite au fameux Hawa Mahal, le Palais des Vents, qui, bien qu’assez joli, ne me m’impressionne pas plus que cela…
![DSCF4866](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c0ae56b4708f476b8f980ff75b0a96b4~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c0ae56b4708f476b8f980ff75b0a96b4~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4867](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_5e18228c4aea4cf28d1b17cfd7081568~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_5e18228c4aea4cf28d1b17cfd7081568~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4869](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4db9943079f047bd94ca8a194f77df03~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4db9943079f047bd94ca8a194f77df03~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4868](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_30a46b015fbe493fb41b31ae3d5f737c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_30a46b015fbe493fb41b31ae3d5f737c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4870](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_1e06a25f44954d0b8278e69e31fc1ecd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_1e06a25f44954d0b8278e69e31fc1ecd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4871](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f9e767dabe3645e889b41b84514ae725~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f9e767dabe3645e889b41b84514ae725~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4875](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_becf1bf39bef45369f52634d63a0d2a2~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_becf1bf39bef45369f52634d63a0d2a2~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4873](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_e33a7dc134ff400382ee7e134c875240~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_e33a7dc134ff400382ee7e134c875240~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4876](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_a7c40096b2294f5c976f6eed86e3917f~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_a7c40096b2294f5c976f6eed86e3917f~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4877](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_207390648b624d27acfe2fa5bab6b640~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_207390648b624d27acfe2fa5bab6b640~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4879](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b3473ba07f204c729a9959848a476c69~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b3473ba07f204c729a9959848a476c69~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4878](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_67b42963e9e04bd3bcc4cd1904cecee4~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_67b42963e9e04bd3bcc4cd1904cecee4~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4880](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4d89e3bd67e04854950a75fec1233a82~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4d89e3bd67e04854950a75fec1233a82~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4881](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c07beffc8b6a4218a9438532977f693c~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c07beffc8b6a4218a9438532977f693c~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4898](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_2823232e2ad64bb99f706df3ebed86bd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_2823232e2ad64bb99f706df3ebed86bd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4899](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_6a52a410a192422a8ddac74dd67eaa46~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_6a52a410a192422a8ddac74dd67eaa46~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4896](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_943b5a4c64754cc39608211566f4e4e5~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_943b5a4c64754cc39608211566f4e4e5~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4897](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_bec4cd324a9b4cf08c1789e2bd39d236~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_bec4cd324a9b4cf08c1789e2bd39d236~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4866](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c0ae56b4708f476b8f980ff75b0a96b4~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c0ae56b4708f476b8f980ff75b0a96b4~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4867](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_5e18228c4aea4cf28d1b17cfd7081568~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_5e18228c4aea4cf28d1b17cfd7081568~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4869](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4db9943079f047bd94ca8a194f77df03~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4db9943079f047bd94ca8a194f77df03~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4868](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_30a46b015fbe493fb41b31ae3d5f737c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_30a46b015fbe493fb41b31ae3d5f737c~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4870](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_1e06a25f44954d0b8278e69e31fc1ecd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_1e06a25f44954d0b8278e69e31fc1ecd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4871](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_f9e767dabe3645e889b41b84514ae725~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_f9e767dabe3645e889b41b84514ae725~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4875](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_becf1bf39bef45369f52634d63a0d2a2~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_becf1bf39bef45369f52634d63a0d2a2~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4873](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_e33a7dc134ff400382ee7e134c875240~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_e33a7dc134ff400382ee7e134c875240~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4876](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_a7c40096b2294f5c976f6eed86e3917f~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_a7c40096b2294f5c976f6eed86e3917f~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4877](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_207390648b624d27acfe2fa5bab6b640~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_207390648b624d27acfe2fa5bab6b640~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4879](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_b3473ba07f204c729a9959848a476c69~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_b3473ba07f204c729a9959848a476c69~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4878](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_67b42963e9e04bd3bcc4cd1904cecee4~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_67b42963e9e04bd3bcc4cd1904cecee4~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4880](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_4d89e3bd67e04854950a75fec1233a82~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_4d89e3bd67e04854950a75fec1233a82~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4881](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c07beffc8b6a4218a9438532977f693c~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c07beffc8b6a4218a9438532977f693c~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
![DSCF4898](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_2823232e2ad64bb99f706df3ebed86bd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_735,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_2823232e2ad64bb99f706df3ebed86bd~mv2_d_2592_1944_s_2.jpg)
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Et nous terminons cette sympathique journée en haut du minaret pour voir la fin d’après-midi sur cette ville qui, décidément, n’est pas rose. Nous y croisons deux brésiliennes marrantes et ça me fait plaisir de parler un peu avec elle de leur pays.
![DSCF4890](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/1b3505_c5e5566f5f874f3a9a635f662a987210~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_1307,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/1b3505_c5e5566f5f874f3a9a635f662a987210~mv2_d_1944_2592_s_2.jpg)
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Le soir, je vais voir un médecin car toutes les plaies et piqûres sur mes membres inférieurs sont infectées, rouges et purulentes, ce qui m’inquiète un peu. Je ne croyais pas si bien m’inquiéter car le médecin me révèle que j’ai choppé un staphylocoque (orthographe incertaine…). Il me fait une prise de sang et me donne de la pommade qui sera le début de mon traitement. Mon inquiétude prend de l’ampleur quand je repense que l’on a amputé Guillaume Depardieu à cause d’un staphylocoque (vraiment je ne suis pas sûr du tout de l’orthographe !) doré et quand je regarde la couleur de mes purulessences (là je ne suis même pas sûr que le mot existe, mais je préfère les néologismes aux fautes d’orthographes)… Bref, j’en saurai plus demain avec les résultats des analyses de sang.
Le lendemain, nous allons visiter la forteresse d’Amber qui se trouve à une dizaine de kilomètres de Jaipur. Quand nous arrivons sur place, c’est un peu le choc. La forteresse est là, perchée sur une grosse colline, ou une petite montagne, comme vous voulez, dans toute son immensité et sa majesté. Au pied de la coltagne[i] (il est joli celui-ci !) se trouve un petit lac (ou un gros étang, comme vous voulez, ça dépend si vous êtes plutôt colline ou montagne justement, Schtroumpf ou basketteur, Indochine ou Beatles !) Et dans cet étalac[ii] (je suis en forme néologistiquement[iii] parlant, dites-moi !), se baignent des éléphants. Nous nous approchons et les cornacs qui les lavent nous proposent, moyennant une certaine ridicule somme d’argent (ici tout se paye), d’enfourcher les pachydermes et de partir au galop dessus… Pour le galop on n’a pas le temps, mais nous acceptons avec plaisir de leur filer de la thune pour monter sur les machins poilus (en effet, contrairement à ce que l’on croit l’éléphant est poilu… Peu, mais tout de même, il y a des choses qu’elles sont bien qu’on les rappelle !). Une fois cet exploit réglé, nous entamons le deuxième : monter jusqu’au fort sous un cagnard de plomb. Ça ne nous prend pas plus d’un quart d’heure. Les FabSab et moi sommes en grande forme malgré les problèmes gastriques que commencent à ressentir mes compagnons.
Une fois là-haut, nous visitons les différents palais composant cette citadelle aujourd’hui fantôme et qui ne fut jamais prise. Je suis finalement plus impressionné par le gigantisme et la beauté de la chose que par la froide perfection du Taj Mahal. Sur place, il y a aussi de nombreux singes qui nous donnent l’opportunité de prendre quelques photos sympas. Puis, nous redescendons sur Jaipur dans un bus de touristes indiens.
[i] Coltagne : Mot hybride entre colline et montagne.
[ii] Etalac : Mot hybride entre étang et lac.
[iii] Néologistiquement : Adverbe de néologisme.
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Le soir, je me rends chez le médecin qui me confirme que j’ai des choses qui clochent un peu dans l’organisme et que c’est sûrement dû aux saletés d’amibes que j’ai chopées au Pakistan. Il pense aussi que le staphylocoque est probablement de la variété dorée mais me rassure en me disant qu’avec ce qu’il va me donner comme traitement je serai guéri à 100%. Il me donne donc deux traitements : le premier pour le machin doré et le deuxième pour me requinquer de manière plus générale. Ceci dit, la pommade d’hier a déjà commencé à faire effet.
Le soir, à l’hôtel, je fais plus ample connaissance avec Agostina et Brenda, deux argentines croisées le matin même et avec qui je discute un petit moment. Quand je mentionne le vélo elles plaisantent en me disant qu’elles viendraient bien avec moi jusqu’en Chine. On se donne de toute façon rendez-vous à l’hôtel Om à Pushkar, car nous y serons en même temps, d’ici 3 jours.
Le lendemain matin, nous enfourchons les bicyclettes afin de commencer pour Fabien et Sabine à amortir leur achat. La journée se passe bien, nous transitons sur une sorte d’autoroute. Le fait que nous soyons protégés par la bande d’arrêt d’urgence rassure et rend l’épreuve moins difficile pour mes compagnons. Nous prenons régulièrement des pauses et finissons, après 68 Kms, par nous poser dans un daba bruyant où nous tendons les hamacs pour la nuit.
Nous reprenons la route le lendemain matin et arrivons sur Pushkar en fin de journée. Les derniers kilomètres sont un peu stressants car la route s’est réduite question largeur et les camions nous rappellent à chaque instant qu’une vie humaine est beaucoup plus fragile qu’un pare-choc camionneux[i] (c’est la journée des néologismes. Olé !). A 20 bornes de Pushkar, je laisse Fabien et Sabine car ils vont prendre un véhicule pour terminer l’étape et je file vers Pushkar par la route longue et plate. 22 kilomètres plus loin (en moins d’une heure, j’ai tracé comme un ouf !) je suis à l’hôtel Om avant mes amis.
[i] Camionneux : Adjectif qualificatif se rapportant à camion.
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Je vérifie, mais les argentines n’y sont pas. Ça m’inquiète un peu mais bon, elles arriveront peut-être demain. Sabine et Fabien arrivent quelques minutes après moi et nous investissons ce magnifique hôtel plutôt bon marché. Au repas du soir, nous dévorons tout ce que nous pouvons de l’excellent buffet à 50 roupies (1 Euro).
Le lendemain, nous visitons un peu le petit village sacré de Pushkar. En fait, tout tourne autour du petit lac (ou gros étang) sacré ou viennent se purifier des milliers, que dis-je ? Des millions de dévots à longueur d’année. C’est hyper touristique, mais ça reste impressionnant et joli. Il y a des vaches et des singes de partout. Comme je m’étais baigné à Amritsar (c’est sûrement là-bas que j’ai chopé le truc doré d’ailleurs, dans une eau aussi crade…) je décide, et ce malgré ma non-totale guérison du bidule doré, de me baigner aussi dans l’étang sacré. Nous faisons ensuite le tour et admirons le coucher de soleil depuis l’un des gaths (espèces d’escaliers qui descendent dans l’eau).
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Nous rentrons ensuite et nous croisons les argentines qui sont finalement arrivées et qui ont investi la chambre voisine de la mienne. Nous parlons un bon moment. Elles sont de plus en plus motivées pour poursuivre leur voyage avec moi et ce le plus loin possible. Ça tombe hallucinament bien pour elles car Fabien et Sabine… Pardon, les délicats et soyeux postérieurs de Fabien et Sabine ne veulent plus entendre parler de vélos. Ils sont donc prêts à s’en séparer : à les revendre quoi !
Cette fois-ci, elles le voient un peu comme un signe du destin, ça ne fait plus de doute, elles viennent avec moi. De mon côté je ne veux pas leur dire non mais en même temps je suis un peu méfiant. J’ai déjà, il n’y a pas si longtemps, vécu l’expérience de voyager avec quelqu’un que je ne connaissais pas assez, et néanmoins, beaucoup plus que je ne les connais elles. Le résultat fut assez fâcheux puisqu’il y eu séparation avec un certain fracas postérieur… Et pas soyeux celui-là ! Et puis j’essaye de les prévenir que le vélo tous les jours ce n’est pas que du plaisir et du glamour… En plus, elles vont commencer en Inde qui est un peu le pire pays pour ça (de ceux que je connais en tout cas…). Bref, rien n’y fait ! Elles sont hyper motivées en plus d’êtres totalement charmantes… C’est bon ! Désormais nous voyagerons à 3. Enfin, en attendant le départ de Fabien et Sabine nous serons 5 et c’est tant mieux !
Le jour suivant, nous grimpons sur une colline (et là, pas d’équivoque, c’est bien une colline !) pour voir un temple. Les SabFab font du shopping pendant que je fais joujou sur Internet. Je me loupe même la piscine de l’après-midi tellement je traîne à mettre en ligne les photos… Ceci dit, je ne manque pas l’excellent buffet du soir. Et le lendemain, Fabien, Sabine et moi partons à vélo en direction d’Ajmer. Ajmer n’est qu’à 13 kilomètres de Pushkar mais la route passe par un petit col. Qu’à cela ne tienne, avant de revendre leurs vélos aux argentines Fab et Sab veulent se faire le petit col en question. Moi, je me dis que ça va être facile car 13 Kms sur une montée et descente c’est un peu pas grand-chose. Et en effet, la vraie montée ne dure que 2 kilomètres. Mes amis se les avalent les doigts dans le nez. Ceci dit, la taille assez réduite du col ne retire rien à leur exploit car, je vous le rappelle, leurs petits popotins endoloris continuent à les faire souffrir (docteur Jérôme, Jérôme de Malo, formidable, PUB ! www.malomusic.fr, Jérôme est docteur en lettres modernes, après une magnifique thèse sur Brassens que je n’ai pas eu le temps de lire avant mon départ, mais dont la dédicace qu’il m’a faite laisse entrevoir qu’il y a là un certain talent. Je ne vous dis même pas comment il fait bien les chansons… Jérôme, donc, après toutes ces flatteries vraies, c’est à toi que je m’adresse : dit-on : « continuaient à les faire souffrir » ou « continuaient de les faire souffrir » ?). Bref, nous sommes à l’heure prévue en gare d’Ajmer où nous rejoignent Agostina et Brenda afin de prendre le train tous ensemble pour Jodhpur.
Et là, je vous laisse à nouveau sans avoir pu faire correspondre la fin de ce mail avec la date d’aujourd’hui. Mais si je veux que ces mails gardent un peu de leur côté « immédiat » ou presque, il faut bien que je vous envoie des nouvelles régulièrement, non ?
Résultat, nous sommes le 4 novembre et je suis à Orchha avec mes deux compagnonnes et il me reste encore 2 bonnes semaines à vous narrer mais ce sera pour la prochaine fois…
A+ tout le monde.
Lionel.